Made for my friend, Peter, these are more fun than can be expressed. They are snug yet can flex with you as you move. These are sized small, when worked as written.
Yarn : Loops & Threads, Elegance. Color: Earth.
Needle size: 1 (Or size to obtain gauge)
32 st = 4" worked in stockinette.
CO 60
K2, P2 rib, for 4 rows
Join to form circle and work K2, P2 in the round for 2”
K3, P1 for next 3”
Work back and forth (not in the round) for 2”
Work in round 1”
Work K2, P2 for 1”.
Bind off in st pattern.
Pick up 24st for thumb. K3, P1 around.
Row 2: wrap last k closest to inner thumb on both sides
Row 3: wrap last k in 2nd to last section on both sides
Row 4: wrap last k in bottom section on both sides
Row 5: wrap last k in 2nd to last section on both sides
Row 6: wrap last k closest to inner thumb on both sides
Row 7-10: work in round in same K3, P1 pattern
Row 11-16: K2, P2
Bind off in pattern.
Weave in ends.
You can see pictures of it on Ravelry here: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/2Kmama/fingerless-gloves
Different weight yarn instructions.
Yarn: Loos & Threads Ring Spun (bulky)
Gauge: 4st/in on 4s
Size: kids
CO 24.
K2, P2, for 3 rows.
Join to form circle and work K2, P2 in the round for 2”
K3, P1 for next 2”
Friday, July 12, 2013
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
Mini Jayne hat
With yellow.
6sc in third chain from hook. Join w/ slst
2 sc in each sc around (12 st). Join w/ slst
work even.
change to orange, join w/ slst.
work even 3 rows.
change to red at join w/ sl st.
sc in next 3 sc.
work dec in all 3 sc.
ch 1
bind off.
work other ear flap on opposite side.
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Vintage Christmas Stockings
9/4/18: Found the pattern on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/transaction/1489134503
Made this with a few of my own changes: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/2Kmama/family-christmas-stockings
***Note: follow instructions on the first part of cuff - and not the chart. Follow chart for body of stocking.***
I recreated this pattern from the stockings my Grandfolks’ had (nice tribute to Chet and Dorie). After their passing, the newer generation came along - and thus the desire was born to make stockings for them.
Having only made socks in the round, as soon as the pattern allowed, I put it all on a circular needle and started the foot sections in a more traditional way. My Aunt says she remembers the originals being sewn all the way up, but I had no experience with working socks that way. Thus, this pattern was ‘created’.
Hope they bring as much joy to your family as they do to mine.
Charts included for 4 different graphs : Santa and Tree, Dancing Santa, Santa in Chimney, and Jack in the Box Santa.
Difficulty level : Moderate
Finished length : Approximately 22” from cuff to toe in sport weight yarn
Yarn : Any colorfast acrylic yarn in sport or worsted weight.
Colors: Green (main color), Black, Pink/Peach, Red, Yellow(Silver or Orange)
Made this with a few of my own changes: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/2Kmama/family-christmas-stockings
***Note: follow instructions on the first part of cuff - and not the chart. Follow chart for body of stocking.***
I recreated this pattern from the stockings my Grandfolks’ had (nice tribute to Chet and Dorie). After their passing, the newer generation came along - and thus the desire was born to make stockings for them.
Having only made socks in the round, as soon as the pattern allowed, I put it all on a circular needle and started the foot sections in a more traditional way. My Aunt says she remembers the originals being sewn all the way up, but I had no experience with working socks that way. Thus, this pattern was ‘created’.
Hope they bring as much joy to your family as they do to mine.
Charts included for 4 different graphs : Santa and Tree, Dancing Santa, Santa in Chimney, and Jack in the Box Santa.
Difficulty level : Moderate
Finished length : Approximately 22” from cuff to toe in sport weight yarn
Yarn : Any colorfast acrylic yarn in sport or worsted weight.
Colors: Green (main color), Black, Pink/Peach, Red, Yellow(Silver or Orange)
Needles : Size 4.
The leg of stocking is knitted flat and the foot is knitted in the round so you will need a set of size 4 straight needles or a 16” circular
needle to knit the leg, plus 1 set of five size 4 double point needles or a second circular needle to knit the foot and toe.
Gauge : (Not too important) 10 st and 14 rows per 2” in sport weight
Additional materials
Stitch markers; you may want to use bobbins for small lengths of yarn; yarn needle for sewing back seam. Beads, bells, or other ornamentation desired.
The leg of stocking is knitted flat and the foot is knitted in the round so you will need a set of size 4 straight needles or a 16” circular
needle to knit the leg, plus 1 set of five size 4 double point needles or a second circular needle to knit the foot and toe.
Gauge : (Not too important) 10 st and 14 rows per 2” in sport weight
Additional materials
Stitch markers; you may want to use bobbins for small lengths of yarn; yarn needle for sewing back seam. Beads, bells, or other ornamentation desired.
Abbreviations
k-knit
p-purl
p2tog-purl 2 together
k2tog-knit 2 together
skp-slip-knit-passover (or if you prefer, use ssk-slip-slip-knit instead for left-leaning decreases)
dec-decrease
rnd-round
pm-place marker
sl-slip
st-stitch
dps-double point needles
Pattern:
Cast on 62 stitches in red.
***Note: follow instructions on the first part of cuff - and not the chart. Follow chart for body of stocking.***
Top Edge
Working back and forth on straight needles or one of the circular needles
Row 1 - 13 : work stockinette stitch (k one row, p back)
Row 14 : k (This should be making a ridge to pick up stitches for the body of the stocking)
Row 15 : k
Row 16 : p
Change color to white (travel red to where name will start) and work one row. Use graph to work name in red with white as the background color. Work one row white. Change to red and work 2 rows red. Work the double needle cast off (Makes a nice clean edge at top of stocking).
With green, pick up 62 stitches from row 14's purled edge.
Place markers every 10 rows. This will make counting stitches and placing colors correctly a little easier. Stocking is knitted flat and seamed at the back.
Go to Graph below.
Key for Pattern:
Begin at the bottom of the graph with Row 1.
A colored square is a stitch in the color shown.
Each bolded line of pattern shows 5 stitches, a space for the marker, then 10 stitches, space for a marker, etc. Y = decrease
End of Pattern (54 stitches remaining). Divide stitches and work heel flap.
Complete the pattern grid, ending on a purl row. Begin using either the second 16” circular needle or switch to double-points.
Cast on 62 stitches in red.
***Note: follow instructions on the first part of cuff - and not the chart. Follow chart for body of stocking.***
Top Edge
Working back and forth on straight needles or one of the circular needles
Row 1 - 13 : work stockinette stitch (k one row, p back)
Row 14 : k (This should be making a ridge to pick up stitches for the body of the stocking)
Row 15 : k
Row 16 : p
Change color to white (travel red to where name will start) and work one row. Use graph to work name in red with white as the background color. Work one row white. Change to red and work 2 rows red. Work the double needle cast off (Makes a nice clean edge at top of stocking).
With green, pick up 62 stitches from row 14's purled edge.
Place markers every 10 rows. This will make counting stitches and placing colors correctly a little easier. Stocking is knitted flat and seamed at the back.
Go to Graph below.
Key for Pattern:
Begin at the bottom of the graph with Row 1.
A colored square is a stitch in the color shown.
Each bolded line of pattern shows 5 stitches, a space for the marker, then 10 stitches, space for a marker, etc. Y = decrease
End of Pattern (54 stitches remaining). Divide stitches and work heel flap.
Complete the pattern grid, ending on a purl row. Begin using either the second 16” circular needle or switch to double-points.
If using circulars, put a marker where the ends of the flat piece come together and join sides to begin working in the round with green. Work stockinette stitch in the round for two rows. If using a set of 5 double pointed needles, reposition stitches as follows : 14, 13, 13, 14. Switch to red. K the next 14 stitches in red, with green traveling behind. Turn.
Heel Flap
Work back and forth on only the back 28 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 11 rows, ending in a purl row.
Turn Heel
With right side facing you, K17, skp, turn.
Sl1, P6, p2tog, turn.
Sl 1, K7, skp, turn.
Repeat these two rows, increasing number of stitches worked by 1 each row, until all stitches are used up, end in purl row. You should have 18 stitches left on your needle. Leave red yarn dangling. Switch to where green was dropped.
Gusset
With green, knit across the first needles (26 stitches, should be in main color). Pick up an extra stitch from the row below, where the heel flap and instep stitches meet (to avoid a hole), pick up and k 6 along side of heel flap, knit across the heel flap, weaving in red as you go, k 6 along side of heel flap, pick up an extra stitch from the row below, where the heel flap and instep stitches meet (to avoid a hole), between where the instep stitches and the heel flap meet.
You now have 58 stitches. If you’re using dp needles, separate then as follows: 26 on needle 1 (1 and 2 combined if using a set of 5) (instep), and 16 on needle 2 (3 if using a set of 5), 16 on needle 3 (4 if using a set of 5).
If using circular needles, place markers at the beginning of the round (side of stocking), after stitch 13 stitches (center front of stocking), after stitch 26 (side of stocking), and after stitch 42 (center back of stocking).
K 1 row even.
Shape the gusset as follows:
Dec 1 stitch on each side (on needle that is connected to the back center of stocking (where you picked up stitches on heel flap)).
Dec rnd: *K until 1 stitch past side marker on opposite side of stocking(needle 3 if using dps)(27 stitches), skp; k until last 3 stitches before side marker (the beginning of the row) (needle 4), k2 tog, k1. You have decreased 2 stitches on heel side of side seams.
Work 1 rnd even.
Repeat these two rounds 4 more times (you have decreased a total of 10 stitches, so you now have 48 stitches). Distribute stitches evenly across the double pointed needles. If using 5 double pointed needles, this means 13, 13, 11, 11 stitches on each needle.
Foot
Continue knitting in the round for approximately 20 rounds (about 3 1/4 inches).
Toe
Change to red.
Work 1 rnd even.
Beginning at the side, using dp needles: (needle 1) k13; (needle 2) k13; (needle 3) k11; (needle 4) k11.
Continuing in the round, decreasing to shape toe as follows:
Rnd 1: *Needle 1: k1, k2 tog, k to last 3 sts before other side seam marker (end of needle 2), skp, k1; Needle 3: k1, k2 tog, k to last 3 sts before beginning side seam marker, skp, k1 (needle 4); rep from *(four sts decreased this round)
Rnd 2: Knit
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 four more times, until 16 stitches remain.
Cut a long tail and thread it through these 16 sts and draw them tight to close toe; tie off and weave end of yarn in.
Finishing
Being careful to hide loose ends in stitches of the same color, weave in and trim all loose ends.
Using mattress stitch and matching yarn, seam the back of the leg.
Block gently.
Crochet or knit a chain or tab and attach it to the top of stocking, at the back seam, for hanging.
Heel Flap
Work back and forth on only the back 28 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 11 rows, ending in a purl row.
Turn Heel
With right side facing you, K17, skp, turn.
Sl1, P6, p2tog, turn.
Sl 1, K7, skp, turn.
Repeat these two rows, increasing number of stitches worked by 1 each row, until all stitches are used up, end in purl row. You should have 18 stitches left on your needle. Leave red yarn dangling. Switch to where green was dropped.
Gusset
With green, knit across the first needles (26 stitches, should be in main color). Pick up an extra stitch from the row below, where the heel flap and instep stitches meet (to avoid a hole), pick up and k 6 along side of heel flap, knit across the heel flap, weaving in red as you go, k 6 along side of heel flap, pick up an extra stitch from the row below, where the heel flap and instep stitches meet (to avoid a hole), between where the instep stitches and the heel flap meet.
You now have 58 stitches. If you’re using dp needles, separate then as follows: 26 on needle 1 (1 and 2 combined if using a set of 5) (instep), and 16 on needle 2 (3 if using a set of 5), 16 on needle 3 (4 if using a set of 5).
If using circular needles, place markers at the beginning of the round (side of stocking), after stitch 13 stitches (center front of stocking), after stitch 26 (side of stocking), and after stitch 42 (center back of stocking).
K 1 row even.
Shape the gusset as follows:
Dec 1 stitch on each side (on needle that is connected to the back center of stocking (where you picked up stitches on heel flap)).
Dec rnd: *K until 1 stitch past side marker on opposite side of stocking(needle 3 if using dps)(27 stitches), skp; k until last 3 stitches before side marker (the beginning of the row) (needle 4), k2 tog, k1. You have decreased 2 stitches on heel side of side seams.
Work 1 rnd even.
Repeat these two rounds 4 more times (you have decreased a total of 10 stitches, so you now have 48 stitches). Distribute stitches evenly across the double pointed needles. If using 5 double pointed needles, this means 13, 13, 11, 11 stitches on each needle.
Foot
Continue knitting in the round for approximately 20 rounds (about 3 1/4 inches).
Toe
Change to red.
Work 1 rnd even.
Beginning at the side, using dp needles: (needle 1) k13; (needle 2) k13; (needle 3) k11; (needle 4) k11.
Continuing in the round, decreasing to shape toe as follows:
Rnd 1: *Needle 1: k1, k2 tog, k to last 3 sts before other side seam marker (end of needle 2), skp, k1; Needle 3: k1, k2 tog, k to last 3 sts before beginning side seam marker, skp, k1 (needle 4); rep from *(four sts decreased this round)
Rnd 2: Knit
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 four more times, until 16 stitches remain.
Cut a long tail and thread it through these 16 sts and draw them tight to close toe; tie off and weave end of yarn in.
Finishing
Being careful to hide loose ends in stitches of the same color, weave in and trim all loose ends.
Using mattress stitch and matching yarn, seam the back of the leg.
Block gently.
Crochet or knit a chain or tab and attach it to the top of stocking, at the back seam, for hanging.
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